Indeed, there's a troubling historical connection between organic food and white ethnonationalism, drawing on the language of purity and a gauzy, idealized notion of a nativist relationship to the land, which must be kept unsullied by industrial pesticides or "foreign substances," in the words of the Nazi scientist Werner Kollath, who during the Second World War promoted the slogan "Lasst unsere Nahrung so natürlich wie möglich" — "Leave our food as natural as possible" — alongside forced sterilization and eugenics. At the beginning of January, one of the far-right insurgents arrested after the invasion of the United States Capitol was reported to have demanded organic food in jail, in order to keep from getting sick.
So the antiracist move is to demand food with the most artificial ingredients and pesticides possible? Or maybe the hard left is finally waking up to the idea that "organic" is often just a way to charge a lot more for pretty much the same thing? Or, at this point the New York Times editing and writing types have becomes so obsessed with racism that they see signs of it even in innocuous places, such as the organic produce shelves.